Riga is a delight for food lovers, especially those curious to taste authentic Latvian cuisine. The city’s food scene is a mix of hearty Baltic flavors, rustic traditions, and modern twists. Whether you’re dining in a cozy tavern or a trendy bistro, trying local dishes is a big part of experiencing Latvian culture. Here’s a guide to what to eat in Riga and where to find the most satisfying local bites.
Grey Peas with Speck (Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi)
A true Latvian classic, this dish is made of boiled grey peas mixed with fried onions and bacon (speck). It’s simple, filling, and comforting—especially in colder months.
Where to try it: Head to Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs, a popular traditional tavern in Old Town with a great atmosphere and an excellent Latvian menu.
Rye Bread (Rupjmaize)
Latvian rye bread is dark, dense, slightly sweet, and full of flavor. It’s served with most meals and often enjoyed with butter, cheese, or herring. There’s also a sweet version served as a dessert, layered with whipped cream and berries.
Where to try it: Grab a slice at Lido or enjoy the dessert version (Rupjmaizes kārtojums) at Milda restaurant.
Cold Beet Soup (Aukstā zupa)
Perfect for summer, this bright pink soup is made with beetroot, kefir, cucumber, dill, and boiled egg. It’s refreshing, tangy, and full of texture.
Where to try it: Look for it on lunch menus at places like Kolonāde or Ezītis Miglā, especially in warmer months.
Potato Pancakes (Kartupeļu pankūkas)
Golden, crispy, and served with sour cream or lingonberry jam, these pancakes are a Latvian comfort food favorite. Some places offer them with smoked salmon or mushroom sauce for a richer version.
Where to try it: Try the ones at Province, a rustic spot in the heart of Old Town known for its authentic dishes.
Smoked Fish
Latvia’s proximity to the sea and lakes means smoked fish is a staple—especially smoked sprats, eel, and herring. They’re often served with rye bread, butter, and boiled potatoes.
Where to try it: Visit Riga Central Market for a fresh and affordable variety of smoked fish, or order it in local-style restaurants like Salve.
Stuffed Cabbage Rolls (Kāpostu tīteņi)
These comforting rolls are made by wrapping minced meat and rice in cabbage leaves, then slowly baked in a tomato or cream sauce. Hearty and flavorful, they’re a wintertime staple.
Where to try it: You’ll find them at traditional places like Lido Atpūtas Centrs, a large self-service Latvian eatery just outside the center.
Sklandrausis (Carrot and Potato Tart)
This unique Latvian pastry comes from the Livonian coast and is made with rye flour, mashed carrots, and potatoes, sweetened with sugar and sometimes cinnamon. It’s a curious but tasty combination.
Where to try it: Look for it at Riga Central Market or food festivals celebrating Latvian heritage.
Latvian Cheese (Jāņu siers)
Especially during midsummer (Jāņi), Latvians enjoy caraway-spiced soft cheese, often homemade. It has a mild, slightly tangy flavor and goes great with dark bread or pickles.
Where to try it: Sample it at market stalls or traditional restaurants during summer celebrations.
Latvian Beer and Black Balsam
No Latvian meal is complete without a drink. Latvian craft beer is growing in popularity, with local breweries offering everything from lagers to hoppy IPAs. And don’t forget to try Riga Black Balsam, the city’s famous herbal liqueur—either straight or in a cocktail.
Where to try it: Visit Labietis, a hip craft brewery with unique local brews, or enjoy a tasting flight at Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs.
Riga’s culinary scene is as rich as its culture—deeply traditional yet always evolving. Trying Latvian food is about more than eating; it’s about connecting with the country’s identity, seasons, and roots. Whether you’re warming up with grey peas or sipping a cold beet soup on a sunny day, Riga will win your heart through its flavors.
